Tiong Bahru

Yes, apparently there are still undeveloped places left in Singapore where people can set up indie shops and cafes. Finally managed to drop by the new "Haji Lane" - this little neighbourhood in Tiong Bahru with sprawling (relatively speaking) open spaces between blocks of walk-up apartments and lots of trees. I had delicious flashes of "this reminds me of the narrow streets of Montmarte" and "almost like the hidden lanes of the Albacin".

Would be deemed inefficient parking nowadays

Quaint neighbourhood

Quaint corridors

And the streets have the most pedestrian names like Yong Siak Street, Seng Poh Lane, Eng Hoon Steet, Chay Yan Steet. It was all the more charming to discover hip cafes and shops sprouting up sporadically amidst traditional provision shops, fish shops and Hainanese curry rice (can't wait to try!).

 

 

 

 

  

Trying to sneak a shot of the cute baby

I was pleasantly surprised to see that unlike the presently blog-shop cluttered Haji Lane, the few shops in Tiong Bahru are genuinely more interesting and varied (Strangelets, Nana & Bird, Books Actually, Fleas & Trees). One of the main draws is the cafes there (40 Hands, Tiong Bahru Bakery, Social Haus, Open Door Policy). Be warned, you will have to pay a premium for the books, clothes and knick-knacks.

Vintage clothes

Entrance to shop

New location of Books Actually

Tried the bread and pastries at Tiong Bahru Bakery (deceptive local name but headed by a French chef with fantastic decor especially the takeaway boxes and paper bags). 

Tiong Bahru Bakery

 

The inside

The croissant (had the choc one) is as good as the reviews claim but very stingy on the choc and overpriced for the size (and lack of choc). The mandarin tart was a good mix of citris and pandan filling on a perfectly butter and crunchy base. I like the squid ink bun sandwiched with smoked salmon and ham - thought it was charcoal bread at first (craving for the piping hot one at Moomba!). The ham was a tad too salty though. The apple crumble was crumbly enough although I think a person with a very sweet tooth will appreciate it better. The focaccia with ham, cheese and rockets was disappointingly hard - I never trust those pre-baked bread with melted cheese on top. Drinks are limited - the usual coffee, chocolate and tea only.

Managed to pop by 40 Hands and immediately fell in love with the decor again. Food there is a mix of western (mainly brunch grub) and asian (saw some tau sar piah bao!). Snuck away with some peanut butter shortbread thumb cookies (again overpriced and frankly looked better than it tasted) and a snookie (a cross between a cookie and scone?).

My only wish for the place is that the government doesn't unilaterally decide to bulldoze it over for another of those soulless condos.